This is a short story of how I came to ride my bike, with my surfboard, down the coastal road of the Nicoya Peninsula. I first laid eyes on this road in November of 2006. Susan and I, and six friends, went to a five-day surf camp in Tamarindo. I went, almost reluctantly, because it was prime ice-climbing season in Montana. But, surfing became an instant passion for both Susan and I.
At the end of our five days at the surf camp, we rented a small SUV and drove down the Nicoya peninsula, exploring the coast and searching for more waves. So it was almost 20 years ago that I started daydreaming about cycling that road with a surfboard in tow.
It was a last-minute decision, but I managed to pull things together pretty quickly. I found a vacation rental near the airport whose owner was willing to hold on to my bike-box and surfboard-bag while I was riding. I got off a red-eye flight at 6:30 AM, took a taxi to the vacation rental, put my bike together and hit the road around 9:30. A few days earlier, I had been skiing in Montana, so the tropical heat hit me like a brick. I first reached the coast after a few hours of riding, and I walked right into the ocean with all my clothes on. On other occasions I found shallow creeks, in which I laid down for several minutes to cool off.
By 4 PM, I had ridden a modest 65 miles but with 6000 feet of climbing on a bike loaded with 40 pounds of gear, including surfboard and laptop, I was pretty cooked. I stopped in a small surf community and camped on a surprisingly deserted beach. I caught a few waves before sunset, but leg cramps kept my first session very short. My hammock was the cozy nest that my body craved, and I slept like a log. I enjoyed another solo surf session in the morning and rode a leisurely 25 miles to my destination and base for the next 9 days, hanging out and surfing with Susan.
I had time to recover, get my surfing legs under me, and when Susan hopped on the shuttle to the airport, on her way back to Montana, I hopped on my bike to begin my bike-touring adventure in earnest. Since I was there mostly to surf, my plan was to ride out-and-back on the costal road, never venturing too far from the coast. I had sore ribs so I decided to take a full day off from surfing and ride as far south as I could before dark. The riding is hilly, bumpy, dusty, hot, and just as scenic as I remembered from the road trip almost 20 years ago.
Since it was the end of the dry season, the rivers were running low and the river crossings were a breeze. My timing was also perfect to ride the famous beach section north of Manzanillo that is only passable at low tide. Riding on the beach was blissful. As I approached the south end of the Nicoya peninsula, I re-entered what little civilization there is and started pondering where I might camp that night. I was jolted out of my dreamy state of mind when my surfboard rack broke catastrophically, plopping my surfboard on the side of the road. I was in a bit of a pickle.
A nice woman and her daughter on an ATV witnessed my misfortune and stopped to ask if they could help. She put my surfboard on her ATV, which luckily had a surfboard rack, and I followed up a very steep hill to her house, where she offered to hold onto my surfboard while I figured out how to carry it again.
The next morning, I rode to Santa Teresa to look for a replacement rack but found none. A barista at a small coffee shop recommended a mechanic who makes custom surfboard racks for motorcycles and ATVs. He claimed to have the necessary equipment at home to weld aluminum and said I could pick up my part the next morning. I rode back to Manzanillo, where my board was stored, swapped my bike for my board, and went for a surf. It was a 45 minute walk each way, but better than sitting around.
I found a nice camp spot that night in a coconut plantation on the beach. I shared this spot with a local who claimed to have been living there for the last six years. The next morning, I rode back into Santa Teresa, picked up my rack, but only made a few blocks from the shop before it broke again. I was disheartened, but not completely surprised. Welding aluminum is tricky business and I had been doubtful of his ability to fix the broken weld. Anyhow, Frank the mechanic was friendly, in good way, and he said he might be able to build a rack from scratch, from parts in his shop, and asked me to come back after lunch. Hopeful, I left my bike with him and found a coffee shop to pass the time, do a little painting, and charge my phone.
To my surprise, he cobbled something half-decent together with steel pipes, inner-tubes, and hose-clamps. I made a trip to the hardware store, made a few reinforcements, and ended up with a somewhat ergonomic, solid, and functional rack. I rode back to Manzanillo to pick up my board. I had to wait for low tide before I could ride the coastline north out of town. I paused for a sack and finally took off with a bit of daylight left, roughly 48 hours after my catastrophic rack failure. I still had 5 days left to ride back to the airport, more than enough time to ride and check out surf breaks along the way.
Had I not found a solution, I might have been riding the chicken bus back to the airport, but I was on my bike and loving life. A slight drizzle started to fall as daylight faded. The rainy season was upon us. But, I was riding a lucky streak because I found a quiet campground with cabins, owned by a friendly older couple with whom I shared dinner and stories. They served me the best fresh lemonade I have ever had in my life.
The next morning, I woke up early for a surf at the local beach of Playa Coyote, which was deserted. The waves in the bay were pounding closeouts so I paddled past the breakers, and then a half mile west towards the point where I could see promising little peelers. As I got closer, I realized they were unpredictable and breaking over shallow rocks. I caught a few very short rides and decided it was not worth the risk. In retrospect, I was there at the wrong tide. I should have done a bit more homework.
I had breakfast with my friendly hosts, and they informed me that I could ride the beach north, avoiding a long inland detour, as long as I crossed the estuary at low tide. I reached the estuary about a half-hour past the recommended window. It didn’t look bad, so I shouldered my bike and started fording the estuary, which was ankle deep and gently flowing inland. After about 20 seconds of slogging along, I saw a wave rolling in towards me. It was tiny, but in a miniature tidal bore kind of way. Within 3 seconds the ankle-deep gentle current turned into a waist deep swiftly moving river that knocked me off my feet. I mild panic set in as I wondered how deep and fast it would get, but luckily, I regained my footing and dragged my load up the opposite sand bar, slightly embarrassed but with gear and body parts intact.
I few minutes later I randomly bumped into a local man that I had met 3 days earlier, in a nearby village. He was caretaking a gringo’s beach house, and he got a garden hose for me to rinse the salt water off my bike. We chatted and exchanged phone numbers before I got back on the road.
I had another estuary crossing half an hour later. My hosts from the previous night had told me that this one was “easier.” I was a lot more cautious with this one, but it turns out that they were right, it was easy. I was now on playa San Miguel. It’s supposed to be good for surfing, but all I could see from the river mouth were giant barreling closeouts. Soon after, I bumped into a Costa Rican family with a little property on the beach. They offered to let me park my bike on their property if I wanted to surf. The waves looked a bit more friendly here, a bit north of the river mouth, so I decided to take advantage of their hospitality. Again, I was surfing a new-to-me spot with no one else in the water, which is always a bit intimidating. I hadn’t even made it past the brakers before a strong current pulled me south to the river mouth. I dove deep under a few set waves that churned up sand and froth, got back on my board, and scratched my way over a few smaller waves, out of the impact zone. I was gassed and wanted no part of it. I waited for the friendliest wave I could find, caught it and rode it back to shore. I was ready to get back on the bike.
For the rest of the day, I rode and checked the forecast whenever I found a bit of cell service. Playa Corozalito was beautiful, but the surf looked questionable. Playa Islita is not known for surfing, but I sat there for an hour considering the option of waiting to see what the morning might look like. Finally, I decided to push onward to Playa Camaronal. The forecast said it was going to be 12 to 15-foot, nothing I wanted to surf, but curious to see what it looked like. Turns out it was about 4 foot and a disorganized mess. There was nobody there and it was about 4-foot and messy. At least the cycling was beautiful, so I kept going.
I thought I might camp in Samara but when I rolled into town, the Semana Santa vacationers had arrived in droves so I grabbed a few snacks at the grocery store and rode hard to make it to Playa Barrigona by sunset. It’s a remote beach with no accommodations. It’s an idyllic camping spot. It had been a big day. I enjoyed a spectacular sunset and a good night’s sleep in the hammock.
The next morning, I thought the swell must be wrong because it did not look good. I found out later that the swell was fine, but the tide was wrong. Had I waited a few hours, the surfing waves would have been perfect. Oh well, I checked out a little-known beach that, as far as I know, is never good for surfing, but it was beautiful and peaceful. An hour later I was at Playa Guiones.
Guiones is usually packed with hundreds of surfers, but the waves were so big and the wind so strong that I counted exactly 3 other surfers while I paddled around in circles catching nothing. The next morning was a bit less crazy; there were 6 other surfers in the water. I caught a few waves and packed up to ride north.
I stopped in Marbella to meet Doug Evan, a shaper, surf/coffee shop owner in this tiny community. We chatted for a few hours before I headed out to the beach to see if I could catch a few waves. The swell was still going strong, and I paddled out all by myself, evidently, at the wrong tide. I have a clear recollection of duck diving under two closeout barrels that were stacked on top of each other. I’ve never seen that before. Eventually, some locals paddled out, and the waves got a bit cleaner.
The next morning, I got another session at Marbella and the conditions had improved some more. Locals were friendly. They asked about my bike and travels. It would have been nice to spend a bit more time getting acquainted with that surf community, but I had only a day and a half left to get back to their airport. I had second breakfast with Doug at his shop before riding to Playa Avellanas.
Costa Rica is hot. Really hot. It’s smart to avoid running or biking after 9 am. But, the mornings’ offshore winds are also ideal for surfing. So, riding in the mid-day sun was just something that I accepted. I was lucky enough to get a room with AC at the hostel in Avellanas. I took quick nap before walking across the famous boardwalk through the mangrove. After about 45 minutes of catching small but clean waves out front, I paddled north to the river mouth where I ended up surfing perfect overhead A-frames with just one other surfer. For once, my lack of local knowledge played to my advantage. The river mouth is typically a low-tide spot, and it was high tide so none of the locals were around. But on this day, it was perfect. We split lefts and rights until sunset, pinching ourselves.
The next morning the swell had come down and I had to share waves with a few locals, but it was still good, and it was a fantastic way to end my trip. I packed up and rode north, needing to be in Liberia for my flight the next morning. I stopped for ice cream every chance I got. The last mountain pass climbed only about 800 vertical feet, but with 20% grades in 95-degree heat, the only thing that stopped me from walking and pushing my bike was pure stubbornness.
I made it to the hotel in time to box my bike and pack my board before sunset. I shared dinner with a lovely family on vacation from San Jose. They generously gave me a ride to the airport the next morning, and I was back on my way to Bozeman, looking forward to a few more ski days before making a definitive transition to summer.


























